Like in 2008 when I had spent 4 months on
the Australian East Coast and just left for the West Coast. I wanted to find the real
Australia, or at least what I imagined the real Australia to be like. You know,
red soil, lots of kangaroos and no tourists, a lonely road seemingly leading nowhere…that kind of
stuff. That wasn’t exactly what I found, but what I found instead was pretty
much as real as Australia can be.
Beautiful Perth |
“We’re not staying in a hostel
again!” – that’s what my friend Juliane and I decided when we got to Perth. We
wanted to couchsurf! Stay with some real Aussies and adopt the Aussie way of
life! So we found Rod, a passionate bull rider in his late thirties. We had
hardly been at his place for 30 minutes when we already left again – to go to a
Western Australian rodeo! Rod was going to ride a mean bull named “Mr. Slinky”,
and so were his 13- and 14- year old nephews. Well, they weren’t going to ride
a real bull, just a steer. But even those can literally rock you like hurricane.
The event started with "bull riding" for the little ones: heaps of kids, maybe around 5 or 6 years old, climbed on several sheep’s backs and raced through the arena. It was so cute to see the mixture of fear and enthusiasm in their eyes when the sheep started wiggling and hopping around.
The event started with "bull riding" for the little ones: heaps of kids, maybe around 5 or 6 years old, climbed on several sheep’s backs and raced through the arena. It was so cute to see the mixture of fear and enthusiasm in their eyes when the sheep started wiggling and hopping around.
The arena was just an oval bunch of fences and
some tipped earth, but if sufficed. The
rodeo scene in Western Australia isn’t really what you would call commercial.
It’s more like the same old friends always meeting up in different smalltowns
to ride some bulls. So the atmosphere is very friendly and welcoming. Everyone
seems to know everybody else and if not
it only takes two or three beers till you lie in each other’s arms and sing
cheesy country songs together.
Usually a rodeo begins with the kids
riding and chasing the sheep. Afterwards the U18 girls and boys have the chance
to climb the small but pretty wild steers.
And then the real action begins for
all those over 18. First up: barrel race! This is an all-girls thing. They race
around big old barrels, making quick turns, trying to set up a new time record.
Then the horseback riders are up. Horse bucking isn’t considered as dangerous
as bull riding because the horses can’t hurt you that much and don’t have any
horns. But their jumps are breathtakingly quick and falling off a horse isn’t
really a pleasant experience.
And last but not least it’s time for
the main event. The real bull riding! To enablethe riders to get on the bull’s
back the bull is caged in the bucking chute so he can’t move. The bull rider is
now able to mount him and grab the rope around the bull’s neck with one hand, the
only grip available. The other hand has to remain free and in the air - And that’s
exactly what Rod, our couchsurfing host was doing when Juliane and I were
accompanying him to his rodeo. From a safe distance behind the fences we saw
how the gate was opened and the bull stormed into the arena. He twisted and
kicked to get Rod off his back. In the meantime the rodeo clown, dressed in
jacket and pants with colorful pieces of cloth jumped around the bull,
distracting him, ready to help Rod when he was bucked off. That didn’t take
long, although I guess every second on a bucking bull feels like ages. But Rod
didn’t even make the required 8 seconds to get into the second round. He still
managed to hurt his rip, though. Bull riding is a pretty dangerous sport afterall.
But with the right amount of alcohol you’re not feeling any pain, so quickly
after the last ride the bar opened and there was a big party with lots of
country music.
So you’d think the dangerous part of
the rodeo was over. Well, it wasn’t. The rodeo folks love their beer and
whiskey and they don’t seem to mind drunk driving or picking up a fight after
wrecking somebody else’s car while drunk driving. Especially the village youth
seemed to be great at picking up a fight and insulting each other with phrases
like “What the fuck? Did you just tell me to fuck my sister? Fucking fuck your
fucking sister!” - “No, I’ll fuck your
fucking sister!” At least that’s what I witnessed. But hey, it was kind of
funny!
Now, you might ask yourself “and
what about you, did you get on a bull?” – of course I didn’t, I’m too much of a
chicken. And you have to train and practice for an event like that. But I did
sit on a bull a few days later. He was old and standing completely still, just
minding his own business. Otherwise I wouldn't have dared to climb onto him. But still, I kind of feel like a bull rider now ;)
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